2017 Spec Build

Prerequisites
Complete parts list
Complete accessories list
Complete tools list
Wiring diagram
YouTube tutorial series
Test flights
Pictures of finished quadcopter

This tutorial is a step by step walk through of building an FPV racing quadcopter with the latest and greatest parts from 2017 (specifically for the Northwest Spec Class). It is geared towards those who have never built a quadcopter and does not assumes you already have anything.

 

Prerequisites

1) Learn the basics of soldering. Learning to solder isn’t hard and this can be your first soldering project, but plan to spend a little bit of time practicing to solder on some wires you don’t need before doing this build.

Quick soldering tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfXXRfRIzY&feature=youtu.be&t=1m14s

More detailed soldering tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY

 

2) Learn the basics of line of sight (LOS) flying. Before you fly a fast racing quadcopter you should practice with a small toy or on a simulator.

Here’s a cheep toy that you can learn the basics on:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AADCNPQ

Also I recommend getting a protector for it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PGRNFE0

 

Quadcopter Parts ($418 + shipping):

Frame – $40
http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5004

4 35mm standoffs – $4
http://www.banggood.com/10pcs-M3-Black-Round-Aluminum-Alloy-Long-Nut-Studs-Standoffs-Fastener-8-35mm-p-1071462.html
or
https://www.hobbytown.com/3x35mm-aluminum-standoff-black-4-by-hq-prop-hq-p030135b/p456759

Flight controller – 39
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/raceflight-revolt-v2-flight-controller?variant=37205051783
or
https://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=505_778_779&products_id=6042

4 ESCs – $40
http://www.banggood.com/DYS-XSD-20A-3-4S-ESC-BLHeli_S-Supports-Dshot600-Dshot300-For-High-KV-Motors-p-1108715.html

4 Motors – $74
http://www.banggood.com/4x-Emax-RS2205S-2300KV-Racing-Edition-Brushess-Motor-CW-CCW-for-FPV-Racing-p-1106170.html

Receiver (RX) – $29
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-X4RSB-316-Channel-Telemetry-Receiver-p-955643.html

FPV camera (NTSC) -$35
http://www.banggood.com/Foxeer-HS1177-Sony-600TVL-CCD-2_8MM-IR-Mini-FPV-Camera-5-17v-with-Bracket-p-1047125.html

2.1 camera lens – $7
http://www.banggood.com/Replacement-2_1mm-2_5mm-2_8mm-IR-Sensitive-Camera-Lens-For-Foxeer-p-1069901.html

Video Transmitter (VTX) – $30
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0Z2BKG
or
http://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:unify_pro_hv_race
or
https://quadrysteria.com/products/tbs-unify-pro-5g8-hv-race-sma?variant=34912212103

VTX antennas (right – SMA) – $40
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY4L56K
or
http://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:tbs_triumph_sma
or
https://quadrysteria.com/collections/video-antennas/products/tbs-triumph-stubby-2pcs-sma-rhcp

VTX antenna (left – SMA) – $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FKW504I
or
http://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/product:924
or
https://quadrysteria.com/products/345?variant=27846991815

PDB and XT60 – $4
http://www.banggood.com/Matek-Systems-PDB-XT60-W-BEC-5V-12V-2oz-Copper-For-RC-Multirotors-p-1049051.html

Capacitor – $5
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M1UFYPI
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MCM49M

LEDs – $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LVWFM4B

5 sets of props – $15
http://www.progressiverc.com/racekraft-5040-tri-blade-propellers.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NGTDG18

Battery strap – $2
http://www.banggood.com/5PCS-Banggood-Battery-Tie-Down-Strap-for-RC-Multirotor-p-1067255.html

Black and Red 12 AWG wire – $5
http://www.banggood.com/2M-AWG-Soft-Silicone-Flexible-Wire-Cable-12-20-AWG-1-Meter-Red-1-Meter-Black-p-985529.html

Plastic standoffs – $8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DXLS4SC
or
https://www.hobbytown.com/m3-assorted-nylon-hardware-kit-black-180-malefemale-by-racetek-gcs-a-030-b/p486676

Nuts – $2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GO4OK6A

Antenna tube – $4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOKC2G
or
https://www.hobbytown.com/antenna-tube-w-caps-5-by-tekno-rc-tkr5126/p231772

JST connectors – $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015A6ZOA4

Velcro – $3
http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Sticky-Back-Strips-Black/dp/B000TGSPV6

Zip ties – $2
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17570__Cable_Ties_160_x_2_5mm_White_100pcs_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2LGMO4

 

Accessories ($430 + shipping):

2 3s batteries – $46 (also see 4s battery in Optional Accessories)
http://www.getfpv.com/tattu-1300mah-3s-75c-lipo-battery.html

Battery charger – $28 (iMAX B6AC V2 Charger is a better charger and comes with an XT60 lead)
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-p405-dual-input-ac-dc-45w-digital-balancing-charger.html

XT60 lead for charger – $2
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt30-charge-lead-with-4mm-banana-plugs.html

Controller – $207 (Taranis Q X7 is a cheaper alternative)
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-2_4G-ACCST-Taranis-X9D-Plus-Transmitter-p-940819.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__67750__FrSky_2_4GHz_ACCST_TARANIS_X9D_PLUS_Digital_Telemetry_Radio_System_Mode_2_.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014IYV8TK

Controller charger – $7 (if the one you choose doesn’t come with one)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__45031__FrSky_AC_DC_Charge_Adapter_US_Version.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010HDI4QG

Googles and video receiver (VRX) – $140
http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Goggles-Two-5-Inches-5_8G-40CH-Raceband-HD-1080p-HDMI-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-p-1094862.html

 

Optional Accessories:

4s battery – $30
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/smc-extreme-1400mah-45a-4s-racing-battery-true-spec-extreme?variant=27824451527

Low battery buzzer – $5
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013U1CP08

Rubber bands to secure low battery buzzer – $3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7TKSWK

Recording camera – $100
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016DDRA2S

Micro SD card – $14
SanDisk Ultra 32GB microSDHC Memory Card With Adapter (SDSDQUA-032G-U46A)

Thin battery strap for recording camera – $6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYNZRB0
or
http://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-small-lipo-strap-3pcs.html

Recording camera mount – 3D printed (printing service)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1448108

Race transponder – Sold at races if required

 

Tools ($67 + shipping):

Soldering iron – $8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NGZK0

Soldering wire – $2
http://www.banggood.com/0_8mm-Soldering-Wire-60-40-Tin-Resin-Flux-Dispenser-Tube-Rosin-Core-Solder-p-990164.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OSBBI0

Soldering flux – $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044SD3NU

Knife – $7
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006962HWI

Pliers – $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001IW518

Electrical tape – $2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AXD0EY

Small screw driver – $4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CWMJHM

Hot glue gun – $13
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J2D8QC

Hot glue – $3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00114Q8NW

Zip ties – $2
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17570__Cable_Ties_160_x_2_5mm_White_100pcs_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2LGMO4

Tweezers – $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LKZKM7Y

Android cable – $5 (for connecting the flight board to your computer)
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Charge-Techoland-Enhance-Experience/dp/B00W1VC2TS

Computer – I’m going to assume you have one (needed for running RaceFlight)

 

Optional Tools:

Wrench – $8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TIVESO

File – $5
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPT7A6

Steel wool – $5 (for cleaning soldering iron)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JYVDSE

Welder glue – $6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UJNH7E

Multi-meter – $13
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISAMUA6

Wire strippers – $15
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302WS

Hot air gun – $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TUCV

 

Wiring diagram:

 

Video tutorial series:

 

Test flights:

 

Pictures:

476 grams with battery and without bottom plate

493 grams with battery and bottom plate

383 grams without battery and with bottom plate

Tiny Whoop with Taranis

It’s coming up on winter and like everyone else I decided it was time to build a Tiny Whoop. Luckily there are a lot of guides on how to build one, but unfortunately if you have a Taranis the OrangeRX module doesn’t work great and is often sold out. A way to get around using an OrangeRX module is to use the BeeBrain flight controller.

Instead of buying a stock Inductrix and replacing the motors and flight controller it’s easier and cheeper just to buy all the parts separately.

 

BeeBrain Tiny Whoop Tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6U0boGN96E

 

Quadcopter Parts ($111 + shipping):

Frame – $8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01344GKD4
or
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/inductrix-frame-clear-whoop-frame

Props – $2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01344STS8
or
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/eachine-prop-set-for-inductrix-and-6mm-motors-red-green

Motors – $14
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4QRVA1
or even faster motors
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/collections/tiny-whoop-motor/products/19600kv-super-insane-inductrix-whoop-motors-fastest-inductrix-motors-6x15mm

Flight Controller – $50
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4QR6WX
or
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/beebrain-fc-tiny-whoop-flight-controller-frsky-compatible

Camera and Video Transmitter – $37
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ2HMQA
or
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/vm275t-crazepony-aio-whoop-camera-25mw

 

Accessories ($272 + shipping):

Batteries – $14
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KUOYSE4

Charger – $9
http://www.banggood.com/X5A-D-3_7V-1S-3A-Upgrade-Battery-Charger-Set-For-Blade-Inductrix-Tiny-Whoop-p-1116150.html

Controller – $190
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-2_4G-ACCST-Taranis-X9D-Plus-Transmitter-p-940819.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__67750__FrSky_2_4GHz_ACCST_TARANIS_X9D_PLUS_Digital_Telemetry_Radio_System_Mode_2_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019JQ7EMW

Controller charger – $5 (if the controller doesn’t come with one)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__45031__FrSky_AC_DC_Charge_Adapter_US_Version.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010HDI4QG

Goggles – $50
http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR-007-5_8G-40CH-HD-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-4_3-Inch-With-7_4V-800mAh-Battery-p-960761.html

Android cable – $4 (for connecting the flight board to your computer)
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Charge-Techoland-Enhance-Experience/dp/B00W1VC2TS

 

Tools ($38 + shipping):

Screw driver – $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002X29G

Wire cutters – $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRTM8XU

1 soldering iron – $10
http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0

Soldering wire – $2
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OSBBI0
or
http://www.banggood.com/0_8mm-Soldering-Wire-60-40-Tin-Resin-Flux-Dispenser-Tube-Rosin-Core-Solder-p-990164.html

Welder glue – $6 (excellent for re-enforcing the frame)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UJNH7E

 

The BeeBrain performed much better than the stock Inductrix flight controller and I can now fly much further without losing signal. I have been having tons of fun flying this little quadcopter around my house. I get between 2 minutes and 30 seconds and 3 minutes of flight time. One big difference between the BeeBrain and the stock flight controller is the quad won’t automatically stop when the batteries are low, so make sure to keep a timer to avoid over discharging. To set up timers on your Taranis checkout out this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmC0RGopffg

Build used by the fastest pilot on “The List” (MultiGP)

Part List
Pictures
Videos

The first time I flew with other pilots was about a year ago and this high school kid (Michael Saalwaechter) was there showing off his crazy tricks. Michael and I have flown together many times since then over the past year, and although both our skills have increased he has always been in another league. This was shown most recently with his performance at the MultiGP 5A Pacific Northwest Regional Finals hosted by DieHard RC. He did not have the cumulative highest score (partly due to the fact his battery didn’t have enough juice to finish the 2 gates on his 8th lap on round 2), but he did get the fastest lap and fastest 8 lap run out of anyone in the nation.

Check it out: http://www.multigp.com/page/the-list-2016

I’m super proud of this kid! I asked him if I could share his part list here, so here it is:

Goby Frame
http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5004
or
https://www.amazon.com/Goby-210mm-Drone-Racing-Frame/dp/B01B6FBP8S

Kiss FC
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/kiss-flight-controller-v1-03
or
https://www.amazon.com/ProgressiveRC-AC-KISSFC-Flyduino-Flight-Controller/dp/B01FYKYFLU

Kiss 24A ESCs
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/kiss-24a-race-edition-esc
or
https://www.amazon.com/Flyduino-KISS-2-5S-Race-32bit/dp/B01JPTK9WA

ZMX Motors
http://silver-drone.com/collections/motors/products/zmx-v3-motor-2206-2600kv-blue-cap

X4R RX
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-X4RSB-316-Channel-Telemetry-Receiver-p-955643.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/FrSky-X4RSB-Channel-Telemetry-Receiver/dp/B016Q3F6UI

FPV Camera
https://www.amazon.com/600TVL-1-8mm-Degree-Angle-Camera/dp/B01CNMQKAG

Lumenier VTX
http://www.getfpv.com/fpv/video-transmitters/lumenier-tx5gpro-mini-200mw-5-8ghz-fpv-transmitter-with-power-switch.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/Lumenier-TX5GPro-200-5-8GHz-Transmitter-Supply/dp/B01CX4TWKO

VTX Antenna
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/tbs-triumph-antenna-sma
or
https://www.amazon.com/Team-BlackSheep-TBS-Triumph-2pcs/dp/B01BJ7FARA

Battery
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/thunder-power-adrenaline-1300mah-4s-80c-lipo-fpv-racing-battery
or
http://www.store.revolectrix.com/Products/Blend435-DIAMOND-Label-60C-LiPO-Batteries/Revolectrix-1500mAh-4S-Lipo-70C-Silver-Label-GP-KO-JST-XH-Balance-Connector

Props
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/racekraft-5-5040-tri-blade-race-props-coming-soon

PDB
http://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-4power-mini-pdb.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/Lumenier-M-PDB-4Power-Power-Distribution/dp/B00VV6Y0SK

Voltage Regulator
http://www.getfpv.com/5v-step-down-voltage-regulator.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/Pololu-Step-Down-Voltage-Regulator-D24V6F5/dp/B016VG8XI2

Battery Strap
https://www.quadrysteria.com/products/484

 

Pictures:

DSC_2138
20160630_105555
20160721_172000
20160721_172031
20160721_172043
20160721_172050
20160802_202756
20160803_204645

 

Videos:

 

He’s making some changes to the build for nationals, but he asked me not to share them until after the competition.

Michael said he would be willing to help me answer questions, so ask away!

Backup parts to consider

Parts broken over the past 6 months
Recommended spare parts to get

 

Here are the things I have broken over the past 6 months of flying. For the amount of flying and crashing I do I’m surprised at how well everything has held up. For example, I only had minimal damage from this crash: https://youtu.be/JidL6ZfBDaQ?t=1m53s

2 FPV transmitters
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3QD9O
The first one I got lasted a long time, but eventually broke because I secured it with a zip tie (like RC Model Reviews suggested not doing) and had a bad crash. I now use velcro to secure it on. For some reason the second one I got burned out after about a month of use, even though I always had the antenna plugged in when it was on. I would recommend getting an extra FPV transmitter as a backup.

6FhrlL8

Since I already went through two of the Skyzone FPV transmitters, I am now trying out the AOMWAY FPV Transmitter which has been recommended by several people. The wiring is different so I don’t recommend using the AOMWAY one if it’s your first build and plan to follow the YouTube tutorial series by RC Model Reviews.

 

3 arms
http://www.banggood.com/Carbon-Fiber-Arm-For-250mm-FPV-Quadcopter-Replacement-QAV250-ZMR250-p-947008.html
So far I have broken 3 arms, all from terrible crashes where I expected much more damage. The first arm broke when I was learning to do flips. I was about 150 feet in the air and ended up going upside down nearly full throttle all the way into the ground. Luckily replacement arms are pretty cheap, so I would highly recommend buying 2 extra arms.

 

1 motor
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__61433__DYS_BE1806_13_Brushless_Motor_for_Multirotor_2300KV_24g.html
The motor part still works fine, but some how the wire going into the motor got pulled on so there became a poor connection causing it to stop periodically. That’s how I lost another arm. I would recommend getting one backup motor.

IMG_20160217_084217253

 

1 camera
http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/RunCam-600TVL-DC-5%252d17V-Wide-Voltage-Mini-FPV-Board-Camera.html
I didn’t secure the crystal on my first camera (like RC Model Reviews suggested doing) and it eventually broke off. I should have put a glob of loctite on the crystal. I took this opportunity to upgrade to the new camera (linked above). I highly recommend that one since it does not have a crystal and it can handle 4s batteries. If you secure the crystal or get the camera without the crystal you probably don’t need to get a spare camera.

IMG_20160217_084344159

 

Several standoffs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017QE9OU4
Hard crashes sometimes caused the standoff screws to break, both the ones holding the camera and the flight controller. When I first ordered everything I was upset I needed to get a whole pack of M2 and M3 standoffs, but 6 months later I’m glad I got a whole pack and not just 4 of each.

IMG_20160217_084712175

 

Tons of props
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80963__Gemfan_5040_Multirotor_ABS_Propellers_Bulk_Pack_10_Pairs_CW_CCW_Black_.html
As expected I have broken tons of props, but much less now that I’m a better pilot and since I started using DAL Props.

 

Some wiring and soldering connections

When I started, my soldering skills were pretty poor. Due to this, some of my crashes have caused the wiring to briefly short or have poor connections causing strange behavior while flying. Although these issues can be tough to figure out what’s wrong (often it’s shorting with the frame itself since carbon fiber conducts electricity), at least you don’t need to spend money on a new part and wait for it to ship.

 

Although I have not had any trouble with any ESCs, other experienced pilots have recommended getting an extra one, so I added it to the list.

 

Here is the list of spare parts I recommend getting.

1 FPV transmitter
2 arms
1 motor
1 ESC
M2 and M3 standoffs
Tons of props

Upgrades for my first build

FPV Equipment
Batteries and Chargers
Props
Tools
Minor Enhancements
Software and Setup

I have now been flying the quad I built in my first blog post regularly for over 6 months and have received many requests to share what I would have done differently. There isn’t too much I would have done differently, but I have made some upgrades that you may want to consider regardless if you’re just starting or have already finished your first build.

 

Goggles – Quanum V2s
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__78125__Quanum_DIY_FPV_Goggle_V2_w_5_inch_LCD_Monitor_Kit_.html

Easily worth the extra $30 to upgrade. Better screen and better form factor. I wish I would have got the V2s to start with.

 

FPV Receiver – FR632
http://www.banggood.com/Boscam-FR632-Diversity-5_8GHz-32CH-Auto-Scan-LCD-AV-Receiver-p-958097.html

This improves the video quality and allows for using two different types of antennas. Basically it picks the better of the two receptions to give you a clearer video. It’s a costly upgrade and it’s a little big, but you can fit it in the Quanum V2 pouch and it does improve video quality. A good upgrade, but not a must have.

 

FPV Receiver Antenna #1 – Mad Mushroom
http://www.getfpv.com/ibcrazy-5-8-ghz-mad-mushroom-antenna.html

Improves video quality and range. I love this antenna and would highly recommend it. Since you get the stock antennas with the FPV transmitter and receiver this upgrade is easy to hold off on to save money at first.

 

FPV Receiver Antenna #2 – Crosshair
http://www.getfpv.com/ibcrazy-5-8ghz-10dbic-crosshair-antenna-rhcp.html

This antenna only makes sense to get if you have a diversity FPV receiver (such as the FR632). It significantly increases the range the quad can go and maintain video signal, but only in the direction the antenna is pointed. With only one of these antennas it doesn’t make sense, but with a diversity FPV receiver it picks the best of the two signals so you can have one antenna (such as the Mad Mushroom) that covers all around you and the crosshair antenna will allow you to fly out far in one specific direction.

 

FPV Transmitter Antenna – Aomway Leaf Clover
http://www.banggood.com/Aomway-5_8GHz-FPV-4-Leaf-Clover-AV-Transmission-RHCP-Antenna-1-Pair-p-961730.html

Strong antenna that also works well. Barely noticeable improvement in video quality and range. Since you already get the stock antennas with the FPV transmitter this is another upgrade that is easy to hold off on to save money at first. This is the best antenna that’s under $20.

 

Battery Charger – iMAX B6
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__36905__IMAX_B6_50W_5A_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_US_Warehouse_.html

The battery charger I linked in the original post works great, but it does not have discharge or storage mode options. This forced me to always discharge the batteries by flying and manually stop the charge between 3.7-3.85V per cell when I wasn’t planning on using the battery for a while. It also didn’t have a 6s jst plug which means finding a compatible parallel charging board will be more difficult, but it probably won’t be too difficult to modify a parallel charging board or make an adapter from 6s jst to 4s. The iMAX B6 charger makes it so much easier to get your batteries to the correct storage voltage which is great if you don’t know when the next time you’ll be flying is. The downside is you also have to get a power supply for this charger. The power supply needs to provide anywhere from 11~18v, at least 5A (you could go lower, but it will affect the max amps/speed you can charge at) like this one, but you should easily be able to find an old laptop power supply at a thrift store for a couple bucks that will work just as good. If you can only find a power supply with the right specs, but not the correct round plug for the charger, you can cut off the plug and solder on any connection that works with the alligator clips since the charges comes with a plug attached to alligator clips. Note: like the P405 charger you need to buy a connector for XT60 or make one yourself. Here’s a great video about the iMAX B6 charger: https://youtu.be/w8ijfcjU-rc

Although I don’t have personal experience with it, you could get this version that has a built in power supply and includes an XT60 connector: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__58285__IMAX_B6AC_V2_Professional_Balance_Charger_Discharger.html

 

Parallel Charging Board
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__36907__HobbyKing_Parallel_charging_Board_for_6_packs_2_6S_XT_60_US_Warehouse_.html

Awesome upgrade. Allows for charging up to 6 batteries in the same amount of time as it used to take to charge just one. Note: as mentioned above this board will not work out of the box with the P405 charger, but will with the iMAX B6 charger. Here’s a great tutorial on parallel charging: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wj-EB4-71M and here’s a quick overview on how to do it with the iMAX B6: https://youtu.be/w8ijfcjU-rc?t=18m22s

IMG_20160215_155323189

 

4s Batteries – Zippy 1300mAh 4S 40C
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDCDK58

Upgrading from 3s to 4s batteries is the easiest way to make your quad faster. I wouldn’t recommend beginners starting with 4s, but when you’re ready, it’s a great upgrade. I still haven’t tried a lot of different 4s batteries, but I know I like the lighter (lower mAh) ones with at least a 35C rating.

If you followed my first blog post after Feb 1, 2016 the quad will be able to handle 3s and 4s batteries. If you followed my blog post before then, the only thing that you need to do is replace the SC2000 600TVL Camera with the RunCam 600TVL 5-17V Camera and you should be good to go.

-The ESCs are rated for 2-4s.
-The motors are only rated for 2-3s, but after doing a good amount of research (see http://blog.oscarliang.net/3s-4s-setup-mini-quadcopter and http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2180080) it appears the motors are fine handling 4s on 5040 props. I tried it out myself and the motors worked great with 4s.
-The FPV transmitter handles 7V-24V, so no problems there.
-Last of all since the flight controller and receiver get powered off the ESCs, there’s no problem there either.

 

3S Batteries – Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45-90C
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18207__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html

After trying several different 3s batteries I found I really liked the first ones I got best. So the upgrade isn’t to get a new battery, it’s just to get more batteries, which can happen at anytime your budget allows. I got 6 of them and that’s a good number for me. With my parallel charging board I can charge 6 at a time in 1-2 hours which is usually perfect. 6 batteries lasts 40-45 minutes (7 minutes per battery) of flying time which equals 1-2 hours of field time depending on how often I crash and how long I take in between batteries. If you wanted to fly continuously you would probably want 12 batteries, so 6 could be charging while you flew the other 6.

-I tried a 2200 mAh battery and a 1500 mAh battery and just didn’t like the weight they added. Both made the quad feel more sluggish and only offered a few extra minutes of flying time.
-I also tried a Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 25-50C battery and it worked OK for casual flying, but did not allow for long periods of fast flying.

IMG_20160215_155522596

 

Props – DAL 5045 Bullnose
http://www.surveilzone.com/Dalprop-2-Pairs-5045-CWCCW-Bullnose-Props-for-Mini-200-RC250280-QAV250-FPV-Racing–g-1421
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017UPFTSK

After breaking tons of Gemfan 5040 props I was surprised at how strong these ones were. Note: I would still recommend using Gemfan props for learning since they will cause less stress on your motors when you crash.

I tried the following props:
Gemfan 5030 – great for learning, because they reduce the power of the quad (compared to a higher pitch like 5040 or 5045) and break easily instead of damaging the motors.
Gemfan 5040 – good cheap prop, but breaks easily. I would still recommend this as a great prop to start with.
Gemfan 5045 Bullnose – good, but more expensive than and not as strong as DAL Props.
HQProp 5045 Bullnose – great and strong, I highly recommend them, very comparable to DAL 5045 Bullnose, but more expensive and harder to find.
HQProp 5040 – very comparable to Gemfan 5040, but more expensive and harder to find.
DAL 5045 – great and fairly strong, but I like the bullnose version better.
GoolRC 5045 – worked OK, comparable to DAL 5045.

IMG_20160215_214940738IMG_20160215_215029389

 

Motor Caps – Lock Nuts
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ISN4VG
or
http://www.myrcmart.com/hex-flange-m5-low-profile-slipresistant-aluminium-black-cw-height-45mm-10pcs-p-9306.html

The motor caps that come with the motors don’t work well. I lost one after only a couple flights. At first I tried to find a replacement cap, but they were expensive and it turns out normal 5M lock nuts work better. The first link works great with the Gemfan props and they work OK with DAL Props, but you may want to consider getting the low profile ones in the second link if you plan on using DAL Props.

 

8mm Wrench
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K3JVLVA

Once you switch to lock nuts you will want a good tool for putting them on and taking them off.

IMG_20160215_221042981

 

Multimeter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA

This isn’t the multi-meter I got, but having one makes this so much easier. It’s not required, but it sure helps when trying to figure why something is not working.

 

Lipo Battery Tester Monitor Low Voltage Buzzer
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SCJIVLQ

I added this as an optional item in my first blog post since it is so useful. This will make it easy to check the voltage of your battery and individual cells without connecting it to the charger. Also, if don’t set up telemetry you can mount this to your quad so you have a battery warning buzzer to help you avoid damaging your lipo batteries by running them too low. Incredibly helpful to have as a small tool. If you want a silent battery tester as well for use at home consider getting this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081Y6QC8

IMG_20160215_221339296

 

Feet – Nerf Balls
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BA028

The carbon feet broke off the quad after the first week of flying and it’s not essential to have them, but they do help save the frame from extra stress when landing. After a month of use without feet I saw a pack of nurf balls I had bought awhile ago (they were the wrong size for my nurf gun) and thought I bet these would make nice feet. I cut off the top 30% of the nurf ball and zip tied it to my arms. They are light and make for much softer landings.

IMG_20160215_155655020

 

Increased Camera Angle

I put longer standoffs on top and shorter standoffs on bottom to increase the camera angle once I started wanting to go faster.

IMG_20160211_150340075_HDR

IMG_20160211_150159299

 

Shortened Wire from ESC to Motors

After I had more experience soldering I finally was brave enough to cut the wires on the ESC and Motors and solder them together as RC Model Reviews did in the tutorial. This reduces weight and makes the quad look a lot cleaner.

IMG_20160215_155929035_HDR

 

Fight Controller Software – Cleanflight/Betaflight
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/cleanflight-configurator/enacoimjcgeinfnnnpajinjgmkahmfgb

I switched from Baseflight to Cleanflight and like it better. I feel like Cleanflight has more options and after loading my Naze32 with BetaFlight it flew smoother. Here’s a good tutorial on switching from Baseflight to Cleanflight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ES2T_Svjc_s and here’s the tutorial I used on loading Betaflight on the Naze32 using Cleanflight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXtB62GAKSA

 

Taranis and General Set Up Improvements

-Switch for arming/disarming. The set up for this is similar to setting up different flight modes.

-Turned off motor_stop feature. Makes flips easier and less dangerous when you kill the throttle.

-Set up timers on the taranis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmC0RGopffg

-Set up battery warnings and voltage read out (I put a timer read out on the same switch as well): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7KpBGDxZQ4

-Set up switches to allow for in-flight tuning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhPCTRvnOEo

-Tuning in general: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VXMXwzlNLU

Using an Android device as an FPV screen and for recording (DVR)

YouTube tutorial I followed
Apps and parts needed
Set up
Video of my first recorded flight

I have often found myself wanting to share the experience of FPV flight with others. I thought about getting a second screen for this purpose, but realized my Android device should be able to do this. Sure enough you can use your Android device to display video received from an FPV receiver, but it requires a few extra things you probably don’t have just laying around. You could possibly use this set up as your primary screen (not sure I would recommend this) or use a video splitter and use it as a second screen for spectators. Since it is displayed on your Android device you can use an app to record the video. Total cost to add a second screen (if you already have an Android device) and be able to record video is $23.

 

I used the tutorial FPV on android smartphone with DVR using EasyCap by 3dxl, but I made a few changes which are shown in the set up part of this post.

 

You will need an Android device running 4.0 or above to display live video and 5.0 or above to record.

Apps:

Easy Cap Viewer – $5
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.easycap.viewer

Lollipop Screen Recorder – Free (not needed if you don’t plan to record video)
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rivulus.screenrecording

 

Parts required for using an Android device as a second screen (for the goggle and receiver set up from my previous tutorial or similar set ups):

1 USB video capture adapter – $7 (not any EasyCap will work – it needs a utv007 chip – the one I linked works)
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-USB-2_0-Video-TV-DVD-VHS-Audio-Capture-Adapter-p-2758.html

1 female USB to male micro adapter – $6
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LN3LQKQ

1 RCA video splitter – $3
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4Y

1 male to male RCA connector – $2 (USB video capture adapter has a female RCA and you need to connect it to a female end on the RCA video splitter – if you followed my previous tutorial you already have one of these male to male RCA connector, but you’ll need an additional one)
http://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Male-Coupler-Connector-Adapter/dp/B007PQ0K1G/

 

Parts required for using an Android device as your primary screen (assuming you start with nothing):

1 USB video capture adapter – $7 (not any EasyCap will work – it needs a utv007 chip – the one I linked works)
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-USB-2_0-Video-TV-DVD-VHS-Audio-Capture-Adapter-p-2758.html

1 female USB to male micro adapter – $6
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LN3LQKQ

1 male to male RCA connector – $2 (USB video capture adapter and the FPV receiver both have a female RCA cable so you’ll need a way to connect them)
http://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Male-Coupler-Connector-Adapter/dp/B007PQ0K1G/

1 FPV receiver – $18 (this is the same receiver from my previous tutorial)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KT314AS

1 JST male to female XT60 – $2 (needed to connect battery to receiver)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18869__XT60_JST_Male_In_line_Power_Adapter.html

1 battery – $4 (any 2 cell or 3 cell battery will work)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21333__ZIPPY_Compact_1000mAh_2S_25C_Lipo_Pack.html

1 battery charger – $28 (incase you don’t already have one)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__58315__Turnigy_P405_Dual_Input_AC_DC_45W_Digital_Balancing_Charger_.html

1 XT60 charger cable – $3 (needed to connect battery to charger)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10266__Charge_Cable_w_Male_XT60_gt_4mm_Banana_plug.html

 

Set up for using an Android device as a second screen:

IMG_20160105_223720_132

 

Set up for using an Android device as the primary screen:

IMG_20160105_224011_258

 

App settings for Easy Cap Viewer:

Screenshot_2016-01-05-23-18-16

Screenshot_2016-01-05-23-18-23

 

App settings for Lollipop Screen Recorder:

Screenshot_2016-01-05-22-18-14

 

I should have gotten out of my car and moved to a place with less interference, so I’m sure you’ll get better videos from me later, but for now here’s my first recorded flight:

From not knowing how to solder to building an FPV racing drone

YouTube tutorials I followed
Complete parts and tools list
Pictures of finished quadcopter

After seeing some FPV quad racing videos I decided I really wanted to fly one. When I found a step by step YouTube tutorial by RC Model Reviews, and watched it several times through, I decided that even though I had no experience building anything electronic I could do it since the tutorial was so thorough. Although the tutorial included some links, it doesn’t have a comprehensive list of all the parts and tools that are required. This caused me to order some parts I didn’t need, and other parts I had to order last minute after I realized they were needed. So others don’t waste money like I did, I compiled a list of all the parts and tools I ended up needing. I spent about $800 even though it should have costed about $630 plus shipping. You can get everything you need for under $500 if you already have some of the tools, and/or use a less expensive controller. For example, I got the Taranis X9D ($212), but you could get the Taranis QX7 for $120 which would drop the total cost for everything to about $540 – I do not have personal experience with the Taranis QX7, but it’s supposed about the same. If you find cheaper/better parts or tools please comment the links so others can benefit!

After I got most my parts I had a friend teach me the basics of soldering, but from there the tutorial was able to guide me through the whole process. A few times I was frustrated, but I believe this build is completely doable by most people.

I finished the first part of the tutorial before adding FPV and tried to go fly the racing quad line of sight. I crashed it many times, caused some damage, and could have hurt someone. I bought a $17 little toy quad and a $2 protector with extra blades (highly recommended). This allowed me to practice inside and learn to fly before talking my racing one out. For the safety of your quad, others, and yourself first learn to fly a toy, then learn to fly line of sight, and then learn to fly FPV.

Since the Taranis has telemetry I was also able to add battery warnings with the help of a tutorial by travisgrindal. Note: if you get the pre-soldered flight board like I did you’ll need to cut the JST connector to be shorter to fit on the pins since the standoffs bring it up too close to the top panel.

This quad is great as a first time build since it is tough, easy to build, easy to upgrade, inexpensive, and can handle both 3s (11.v) and 4s (14.8v) batteries.

Happy flying!

 

Budget build tutorial by RC Model Reviews: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLgHGpiWXS2eSYeceg736QSESW9mijzuhf

Telemetry and battery warnings setup tutorial by travisgrindal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7KpBGDxZQ4

 

Quadcopter Parts ($231 + shipping):

1 frame – $21 (the triangles go down for stands – super helpful, but mine broke off pretty quickly when I was learning to fly)
http://www.banggood.com/H250-ZMR250-250mm-Carbon-Fiber-Mini-Quadcopter-Multicopter-Frame-Kit-p-933185.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE9EGAA

4 motors – $32 (in the tutorial he cuts the motor and ESC wires, but I decided to avoid the extra soldering by connecting them and bunching them up with zip ties – see pictures)
http://www.banggood.com/DYS-BE1806-2300KV-Brushless-Motor-2-3S-for-Mini-Multicopters-p-933192.html
or
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__61433__DYS_BE1806_13_Brushless_Motor_for_Multirotor_2300KV_24g.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SR9GH4O

4 ESCs- $40
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__55241__Afro_ESC_12Amp_Ultra_Lite_Multi_rotor_Motor_Speed_Controller_SimonK_Firmware_Version_3.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WFHNFX0

1 flight controller – $23
http://www.banggood.com/Afro-Naze32-10DOF-Rev5-MPU6050-Flight-controller-p-1007113.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__68813__AfroFlight_Naze32_Acro_FunFly_Controller_Soldered_version_Horizontal_Pin_.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZIZO0W

1 receiver – $23
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-D4RII-24G-4CH-ACCST-Telemetry-Receiver-p-929069.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24788__FrSky_D4R_II_4ch_2_4Ghz_ACCST_Receiver_w_telemetry_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWHWFWO

1 camera 2.8mm – $31 (in the tutorial the SC2000 600TVL Camera was used, but if you use this one instead your quad will be able to support 3s and 4s batteries – the only down side is you can only get 3 of the 4 standoff nuts on)
http://www.banggood.com/RunCam-PZ0420M-L28-2_8MM-864_3M-600TVL-DC-5-17V-Wide-Voltage-Mini-FPV-Camera-p-1017665.html
or
http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/RunCam-600TVL-DC-5%252d17V-Wide-Voltage-Mini-FPV-Board-Camera.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0P2M2Q

1 FPV transmitter – $19
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__63114__SkyZone_TS5823_5_8GHz_32CH_A_V_200mW_Mini_FPV_Transmitter_v2_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3QD9O

10 sets of 2 5040 blades – $8 (you only need 2 sets, but you’ll want tons of these)
http://www.banggood.com/6-Pairs-Gemfan-5040-CW-CCW-ABS-Propellers-For-ZMR250-QAV250-280-180-RC-Multirotors-p-1007458.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80963__Gemfan_5040_Multirotor_ABS_Propellers_Bulk_Pack_10_Pairs_CW_CCW_Black_.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FMY0F4O

3 female XT60 connectors – $2
http://www.banggood.com/Amass-XT60-MaleFemale-Bullet-Connector-Plugs-For-RC-Lipo-Battery-p-929670.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10414__Male_XT60_connectors_5pcs_bag_GENUINE.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6AUSYU

10 JST connections – $3
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-10-Pairs-15cm-JST-Connector-Plug-With-Connect-Cable-For-RC-BEC-ESC-Battery-p-50810.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7MXA2W

M2 and M3 standoffs – $12 (M2 standoffs for camera and M3 for the flight controller)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017QE9OU4
or
http://www.banggood.com/140pcs-M2-Nylon-Hex-Spacers-Screw-Nut-Assortment-Stand-off-Accessories-Kit-Set-p-996104.html
and
http://www.banggood.com/88pcs-M3-Nylon-Black-M-F-Hex-Spacers-Screw-Nut-Assortment-Kit-p-947169.html

1 meter of silicone wire – $1 (I found it helpful to get both red and black)
http://www.banggood.com/2M-AWG-Soft-Silicone-Flexible-Wire-Cable-12-20-AWG-1-Meter-Red-1-Meter-Black-p-985529.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__78196__Turnigy_High_Quality_16AWG_Silicone_Wire_1m_Black_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077E92C4

1 meter of LED lights – $3 (not required, but recommended – 1 meter is way more than needed)
http://www.banggood.com/5M-300-LEDs-SMD-3528-Flexible-LED-Strip-Light-Non-Waterproof-DC-12V-p-922277.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8941__Turnigy_High_Density_R_C_LED_Flexible_Strip_Red_1mtr_.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FHEJ3V0

1 set of 4 velcro – $3
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__74090__Polyester_Velcro_Peel_n_stick_Black_1_Meter_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Sticky-Back-Strips-Black/dp/B000TGSPV6

Heat shrink – $5
http://www.banggood.com/328pcs-21-Polyolefin-Heat-Shrink-Tube-Sleeving-5-Color-8-Size-p-969574.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Shrink-Sleeve-Assorted/dp/B008WWC6FU

1 copper pcb to use as power distribution board – $3 (I did not use, but I wish I did since it would have things easier than soldering all the wires together)
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Single-Copper-Laminate-Circuit/dp/B00P26EQNE

1 battery strap – $2 (I made my own, but I would recommend buying one since my battery comes off on hard crashes)
http://www.banggood.com/Nylon-Velcro-Lipo-Battery-2cm30cm-Ribbon-Fastener-Magic-Sticker-Strap-p-922923.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__90954__Scorpion_Locking_Velcro_Battery_Strap_Set.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ANOKKTS

 

Accessories ($322 + shipping):

2 batteries – $31 (one for Goggles and one for the quad – you’ll probably want more of these – the battery for the Googles needs to be 3s, but the quad can handle 3s or 4s)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18207__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDH7WB6

1 battery charger – $27 (you also need to buy a connector for XT60 or cut the wires and solder on a XT60 connector like I did – XT60 connectors already listed above)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__58315__Turnigy_P405_Dual_Input_AC_DC_45W_Digital_Balancing_Charger_.html

1 controller – $207 (a cheeper alternative would the Taranis Q X7)
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-2_4G-ACCST-Taranis-X9D-Plus-Transmitter-p-940819.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__67750__FrSky_2_4GHz_ACCST_TARANIS_X9D_PLUS_Digital_Telemetry_Radio_System_Mode_2_.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014IYV8TK

1 controller charger – $7 (if the one you choose doesn’t come with one)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__45031__FrSky_AC_DC_Charge_Adapter_US_Version.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010HDI4QG

1 goggles – $32 (these are the first ones I used and they work ok, but I would recommend the Quanum v2 Goggles)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__53706__Quanum_DIY_FPV_Goggle_Set_with_Monitor_KIT_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YPZ9N4A

1 FPV receiver – $17
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15415__SkyZone_RC305_5_8Ghz_8_Channel_AV_Receiver.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZQYGSW

1 male to male RCA cable/connector – $1 (the goggles and FPV receiver both have female RCA video cables so you’ll need a way to connect them – I made my own male to male connection, but the one linked should work)
http://www.banggood.com/Male-to-Male-RCA-Phono-Coupler-AV-Audio-Adapter-Connector-Nickel-p-968256.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34746__RCA_Male_to_RCA_Male_A_V_Coupler_Adaptor_3pc_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Male-Coupler-Connector-Adapter/dp/B007PQ0K1G

You’ll also need to solder a XT60 connector that goes to 2 JST connections (both already listed above) so your screen and your receiver share the same battery- see pictures (they don’t necessarily have to share the same battery, but they need to share the same ground wire)

I would also recommend getting a Lipo Battery Tester Monitor Low Voltage Buzzer, but it isn’t required. This will make it easy to check the voltage of your battery and individual cells without connecting it to the charger. Also, if don’t set up telemetry you can mounted this to your quad so you have a battery warning buzzer to help you avoid damaging your lipo batteries by running them too low.

 

Tools ($76 + shipping):

1 knife – $7
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006962HWI

1 soldering iron – $8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NGZK0

Soldering wire – $2
http://www.banggood.com/0_8mm-Soldering-Wire-60-40-Tin-Resin-Flux-Dispenser-Tube-Rosin-Core-Solder-p-990164.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OSBBI0

Zip ties – $2 (I used tons of these)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17570__Cable_Ties_160_x_2_5mm_White_100pcs_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2LGMO4

Loctite – $8
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1363589-4-Gram-Control-Adhesive/dp/B003Y49R7G

Metric allen keys – $15 (I already had these)
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-25253-Hex-Wrench-30-Piece/dp/B00I5TH074

Wrench – $10 (socket wrench would be better, but a wrench works – I already had one and a socket wrench set)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N5L0

Electrical tape – $8 (I used electrical tape from HomeDepot, but many people have recommended liquid electrical tape)
http://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B000XBDK7G

Wire cutters – $11 (not needed since you have the knife, but they will make things easier – I already had some)
http://www.amazon.com/Rapala-7-Inch-Side-Cutter/dp/B0015NBL0E

Android cable – $5 (for connecting the flight board to your computer – I already had one)
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Charge-Techoland-Enhance-Experience/dp/B00W1VC2TS

Computer – I’m going to assume you have one (needed for running base flight)

 

Pictures:

Goggles and FPV receiver

IMG_20150922_080800414

Quadcopter

IMG_20150922_080819783IMG_20150922_080829719IMG_20150922_080838468IMG_20150922_080846389

 

I put together a list of backup parts you should consider getting in this blog post: http://copterwars.com/blog/?p=148

If you want to read about the upgrades I made over the first 6 months of regularly flying this build checkout this blog post:
http://copterwars.com/blog/?p=56