2018 Beginner Suggestions

There are so many options for new pilots that it can be a little bit overwhelming. Finding the right balance of something not overpriced that will actually last can be difficult. These are the recommendations I currently make to my friends when they ask what they should get to start out.

  1. Get a good transmitter. A good transmitter will be something that you only need to buy once. I highly recommend the Taranis QX7. It can be used for most quads (indoor mini to full size outdoor drones). You can also use it for many planes and RC cars if you want to get into those as well. I bought a Taranis X9D when I started FPV drone racing and it has lasted me several years and I expect it to be the only one I use for several more years. The Taranis QX7 is the newer version and is less expensive, so if I were starting today that’s what I would get.

     

  2. Practice on a simulator. There are many simulator options that will allow you to use your transmitter as the controller: FPV FreeRider, Liftoff, VelociDrone, DRL Racing Simulator…etc. A simulator is a great way to get a feel for FPV flying and practice before you start crashing a real drone.

     

  3. Get goggles. This is where it gets tricky. There is no cheap and great option here and the best goggles for most people may not be the best goggles for you. If you are able to try out a bunch of goggles (at most events pilots are willing to let you try out their goggles while they’re not flying) and are confident you are going to be into FPV for the long awhile, then I would recommend buying the expensive goggles that you like best. Like the transmitter this can be a one time purchase that lasts years since it will be safe on the ground. However, if you’re unsure which goggles you want long term or even if you’re going to do this long term I would recommend getting the cheap pair that will be good enough.

     

  4. Get a Babyhawk drone. I have long advocated for building your own drone, but the Babyhawk has convinced me otherwise. Not only is it my current favorite drone to fly, but it is also fairly inexpensive. It performs great indoors or outdoors! Most pre-build quads are underwhelming or require modification to be decent, but the babyhawk is the first quad I’ve been happy with right out of the box. Be sure to get one that includes to the FrSky receiver.

     

  5. Get a battery charger and extra batteries. You won’t be flying long without  having some extra packs and being able to charge your batteries. Each battery gives you ~4 minutes of flight time, so if you want to fly for 20 minutes get 5 packs. You may also want to put velcro on your Babyhawk and batteries to keep them on better.

If you’re thinking $300 is too much to get started and just want to try out up something super cheep you could start with a complete kit. It won’t last you long and nothing will be reusable (except maybe the goggles), but it’s the cheapest way I’ve found get started with FPV flying.

 

2017 Spec Build

Prerequisites
Complete parts list
Complete accessories list
Complete tools list
Wiring diagram
YouTube tutorial series
Test flights
Pictures of finished quadcopter

This tutorial is a step by step walk through of building an FPV racing quadcopter with the latest and greatest parts from 2017 (specifically for the Northwest Spec Class). It is geared towards those who have never built a quadcopter and does not assumes you already have anything.

 

Prerequisites

1) Learn the basics of soldering. Learning to solder isn’t hard and this can be your first soldering project, but plan to spend a little bit of time practicing to solder on some wires you don’t need before doing this build.

Quick soldering tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfXXRfRIzY&feature=youtu.be&t=1m14s

More detailed soldering tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY

 

2) Learn the basics of line of sight (LOS) flying. Before you fly a fast racing quadcopter you should practice with a small toy or on a simulator.

Here’s a cheep toy that you can learn the basics on:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AADCNPQ

Also I recommend getting a protector for it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PGRNFE0

 

Quadcopter Parts ($418 + shipping):

Frame – $40
http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5004

4 35mm standoffs – $4
http://www.banggood.com/10pcs-M3-Black-Round-Aluminum-Alloy-Long-Nut-Studs-Standoffs-Fastener-8-35mm-p-1071462.html
or
https://www.hobbytown.com/3x35mm-aluminum-standoff-black-4-by-hq-prop-hq-p030135b/p456759

Flight controller – 39
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/raceflight-revolt-v2-flight-controller?variant=37205051783
or
https://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=505_778_779&products_id=6042

4 ESCs – $40
http://www.banggood.com/DYS-XSD-20A-3-4S-ESC-BLHeli_S-Supports-Dshot600-Dshot300-For-High-KV-Motors-p-1108715.html

4 Motors – $74
http://www.banggood.com/4x-Emax-RS2205S-2300KV-Racing-Edition-Brushess-Motor-CW-CCW-for-FPV-Racing-p-1106170.html

Receiver (RX) – $29
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-X4RSB-316-Channel-Telemetry-Receiver-p-955643.html

FPV camera (NTSC) -$35
http://www.banggood.com/Foxeer-HS1177-Sony-600TVL-CCD-2_8MM-IR-Mini-FPV-Camera-5-17v-with-Bracket-p-1047125.html

2.1 camera lens – $7
http://www.banggood.com/Replacement-2_1mm-2_5mm-2_8mm-IR-Sensitive-Camera-Lens-For-Foxeer-p-1069901.html

Video Transmitter (VTX) – $30
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0Z2BKG
or
http://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:unify_pro_hv_race
or
https://quadrysteria.com/products/tbs-unify-pro-5g8-hv-race-sma?variant=34912212103

VTX antennas (right – SMA) – $40
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY4L56K
or
http://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:tbs_triumph_sma
or
https://quadrysteria.com/collections/video-antennas/products/tbs-triumph-stubby-2pcs-sma-rhcp

VTX antenna (left – SMA) – $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FKW504I
or
http://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/product:924
or
https://quadrysteria.com/products/345?variant=27846991815

PDB and XT60 – $4
http://www.banggood.com/Matek-Systems-PDB-XT60-W-BEC-5V-12V-2oz-Copper-For-RC-Multirotors-p-1049051.html

Capacitor – $5
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M1UFYPI
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MCM49M

LEDs – $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LVWFM4B

5 sets of props – $15
http://www.progressiverc.com/racekraft-5040-tri-blade-propellers.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NGTDG18

Battery strap – $2
http://www.banggood.com/5PCS-Banggood-Battery-Tie-Down-Strap-for-RC-Multirotor-p-1067255.html

Black and Red 12 AWG wire – $5
http://www.banggood.com/2M-AWG-Soft-Silicone-Flexible-Wire-Cable-12-20-AWG-1-Meter-Red-1-Meter-Black-p-985529.html

Plastic standoffs – $8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DXLS4SC
or
https://www.hobbytown.com/m3-assorted-nylon-hardware-kit-black-180-malefemale-by-racetek-gcs-a-030-b/p486676

Nuts – $2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GO4OK6A

Antenna tube – $4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOKC2G
or
https://www.hobbytown.com/antenna-tube-w-caps-5-by-tekno-rc-tkr5126/p231772

JST connectors – $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015A6ZOA4

Velcro – $3
http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Sticky-Back-Strips-Black/dp/B000TGSPV6

Zip ties – $2
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17570__Cable_Ties_160_x_2_5mm_White_100pcs_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2LGMO4

 

Accessories ($430 + shipping):

2 3s batteries – $46 (also see 4s battery in Optional Accessories)
http://www.getfpv.com/tattu-1300mah-3s-75c-lipo-battery.html

Battery charger – $28 (iMAX B6AC V2 Charger is a better charger and comes with an XT60 lead)
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-p405-dual-input-ac-dc-45w-digital-balancing-charger.html

XT60 lead for charger – $2
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt30-charge-lead-with-4mm-banana-plugs.html

Controller – $207 (Taranis Q X7 is a cheaper alternative)
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-2_4G-ACCST-Taranis-X9D-Plus-Transmitter-p-940819.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__67750__FrSky_2_4GHz_ACCST_TARANIS_X9D_PLUS_Digital_Telemetry_Radio_System_Mode_2_.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014IYV8TK

Controller charger – $7 (if the one you choose doesn’t come with one)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__45031__FrSky_AC_DC_Charge_Adapter_US_Version.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010HDI4QG

Googles and video receiver (VRX) – $140
http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Goggles-Two-5-Inches-5_8G-40CH-Raceband-HD-1080p-HDMI-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-p-1094862.html

 

Optional Accessories:

4s battery – $30
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/smc-extreme-1400mah-45a-4s-racing-battery-true-spec-extreme?variant=27824451527

Low battery buzzer – $5
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013U1CP08

Rubber bands to secure low battery buzzer – $3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7TKSWK

Recording camera – $100
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016DDRA2S

Micro SD card – $14
SanDisk Ultra 32GB microSDHC Memory Card With Adapter (SDSDQUA-032G-U46A)

Thin battery strap for recording camera – $6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYNZRB0
or
http://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-small-lipo-strap-3pcs.html

Recording camera mount – 3D printed (printing service)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1448108

Race transponder – Sold at races if required

 

Tools ($67 + shipping):

Soldering iron – $8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NGZK0

Soldering wire – $2
http://www.banggood.com/0_8mm-Soldering-Wire-60-40-Tin-Resin-Flux-Dispenser-Tube-Rosin-Core-Solder-p-990164.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OSBBI0

Soldering flux – $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044SD3NU

Knife – $7
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006962HWI

Pliers – $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001IW518

Electrical tape – $2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AXD0EY

Small screw driver – $4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CWMJHM

Hot glue gun – $13
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J2D8QC

Hot glue – $3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00114Q8NW

Zip ties – $2
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17570__Cable_Ties_160_x_2_5mm_White_100pcs_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2LGMO4

Tweezers – $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LKZKM7Y

Android cable – $5 (for connecting the flight board to your computer)
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Charge-Techoland-Enhance-Experience/dp/B00W1VC2TS

Computer – I’m going to assume you have one (needed for running RaceFlight)

 

Optional Tools:

Wrench – $8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TIVESO

File – $5
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPT7A6

Steel wool – $5 (for cleaning soldering iron)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JYVDSE

Welder glue – $6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UJNH7E

Multi-meter – $13
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISAMUA6

Wire strippers – $15
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302WS

Hot air gun – $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TUCV

 

Wiring diagram:

 

Video tutorial series:

 

Test flights:

 

Pictures:

476 grams with battery and without bottom plate

493 grams with battery and bottom plate

383 grams without battery and with bottom plate

Tiny Whoop with Taranis

It’s coming up on winter and like everyone else I decided it was time to build a Tiny Whoop. Luckily there are a lot of guides on how to build one, but unfortunately if you have a Taranis the OrangeRX module doesn’t work great and is often sold out. A way to get around using an OrangeRX module is to use the BeeBrain flight controller.

Instead of buying a stock Inductrix and replacing the motors and flight controller it’s easier and cheeper just to buy all the parts separately.

 

BeeBrain Tiny Whoop Tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6U0boGN96E

 

Quadcopter Parts ($111 + shipping):

Frame – $8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01344GKD4
or
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/inductrix-frame-clear-whoop-frame

Props – $2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01344STS8
or
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/eachine-prop-set-for-inductrix-and-6mm-motors-red-green

Motors – $14
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4QRVA1
or even faster motors
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/collections/tiny-whoop-motor/products/19600kv-super-insane-inductrix-whoop-motors-fastest-inductrix-motors-6x15mm

Flight Controller – $50
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4QR6WX
or
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/beebrain-fc-tiny-whoop-flight-controller-frsky-compatible

Camera and Video Transmitter – $37
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ2HMQA
or
http://www.RaceDayQuads.com/products/vm275t-crazepony-aio-whoop-camera-25mw

 

Accessories ($272 + shipping):

Batteries – $14
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KUOYSE4

Charger – $9
http://www.banggood.com/X5A-D-3_7V-1S-3A-Upgrade-Battery-Charger-Set-For-Blade-Inductrix-Tiny-Whoop-p-1116150.html

Controller – $190
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-2_4G-ACCST-Taranis-X9D-Plus-Transmitter-p-940819.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__67750__FrSky_2_4GHz_ACCST_TARANIS_X9D_PLUS_Digital_Telemetry_Radio_System_Mode_2_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019JQ7EMW

Controller charger – $5 (if the controller doesn’t come with one)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__45031__FrSky_AC_DC_Charge_Adapter_US_Version.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010HDI4QG

Goggles – $50
http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR-007-5_8G-40CH-HD-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-4_3-Inch-With-7_4V-800mAh-Battery-p-960761.html

Android cable – $4 (for connecting the flight board to your computer)
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Charge-Techoland-Enhance-Experience/dp/B00W1VC2TS

 

Tools ($38 + shipping):

Screw driver – $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002X29G

Wire cutters – $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRTM8XU

1 soldering iron – $10
http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0

Soldering wire – $2
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OSBBI0
or
http://www.banggood.com/0_8mm-Soldering-Wire-60-40-Tin-Resin-Flux-Dispenser-Tube-Rosin-Core-Solder-p-990164.html

Welder glue – $6 (excellent for re-enforcing the frame)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UJNH7E

 

The BeeBrain performed much better than the stock Inductrix flight controller and I can now fly much further without losing signal. I have been having tons of fun flying this little quadcopter around my house. I get between 2 minutes and 30 seconds and 3 minutes of flight time. One big difference between the BeeBrain and the stock flight controller is the quad won’t automatically stop when the batteries are low, so make sure to keep a timer to avoid over discharging. To set up timers on your Taranis checkout out this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmC0RGopffg

Backup parts to consider

Parts broken over the past 6 months
Recommended spare parts to get

 

Here are the things I have broken over the past 6 months of flying. For the amount of flying and crashing I do I’m surprised at how well everything has held up. For example, I only had minimal damage from this crash: https://youtu.be/JidL6ZfBDaQ?t=1m53s

2 FPV transmitters
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3QD9O
The first one I got lasted a long time, but eventually broke because I secured it with a zip tie (like RC Model Reviews suggested not doing) and had a bad crash. I now use velcro to secure it on. For some reason the second one I got burned out after about a month of use, even though I always had the antenna plugged in when it was on. I would recommend getting an extra FPV transmitter as a backup.

6FhrlL8

Since I already went through two of the Skyzone FPV transmitters, I am now trying out the AOMWAY FPV Transmitter which has been recommended by several people. The wiring is different so I don’t recommend using the AOMWAY one if it’s your first build and plan to follow the YouTube tutorial series by RC Model Reviews.

 

3 arms
http://www.banggood.com/Carbon-Fiber-Arm-For-250mm-FPV-Quadcopter-Replacement-QAV250-ZMR250-p-947008.html
So far I have broken 3 arms, all from terrible crashes where I expected much more damage. The first arm broke when I was learning to do flips. I was about 150 feet in the air and ended up going upside down nearly full throttle all the way into the ground. Luckily replacement arms are pretty cheap, so I would highly recommend buying 2 extra arms.

 

1 motor
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__61433__DYS_BE1806_13_Brushless_Motor_for_Multirotor_2300KV_24g.html
The motor part still works fine, but some how the wire going into the motor got pulled on so there became a poor connection causing it to stop periodically. That’s how I lost another arm. I would recommend getting one backup motor.

IMG_20160217_084217253

 

1 camera
http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/RunCam-600TVL-DC-5%252d17V-Wide-Voltage-Mini-FPV-Board-Camera.html
I didn’t secure the crystal on my first camera (like RC Model Reviews suggested doing) and it eventually broke off. I should have put a glob of loctite on the crystal. I took this opportunity to upgrade to the new camera (linked above). I highly recommend that one since it does not have a crystal and it can handle 4s batteries. If you secure the crystal or get the camera without the crystal you probably don’t need to get a spare camera.

IMG_20160217_084344159

 

Several standoffs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017QE9OU4
Hard crashes sometimes caused the standoff screws to break, both the ones holding the camera and the flight controller. When I first ordered everything I was upset I needed to get a whole pack of M2 and M3 standoffs, but 6 months later I’m glad I got a whole pack and not just 4 of each.

IMG_20160217_084712175

 

Tons of props
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80963__Gemfan_5040_Multirotor_ABS_Propellers_Bulk_Pack_10_Pairs_CW_CCW_Black_.html
As expected I have broken tons of props, but much less now that I’m a better pilot and since I started using DAL Props.

 

Some wiring and soldering connections

When I started, my soldering skills were pretty poor. Due to this, some of my crashes have caused the wiring to briefly short or have poor connections causing strange behavior while flying. Although these issues can be tough to figure out what’s wrong (often it’s shorting with the frame itself since carbon fiber conducts electricity), at least you don’t need to spend money on a new part and wait for it to ship.

 

Although I have not had any trouble with any ESCs, other experienced pilots have recommended getting an extra one, so I added it to the list.

 

Here is the list of spare parts I recommend getting.

1 FPV transmitter
2 arms
1 motor
1 ESC
M2 and M3 standoffs
Tons of props

From not knowing how to solder to building an FPV racing drone

YouTube tutorials I followed
Complete parts and tools list
Pictures of finished quadcopter

After seeing some FPV quad racing videos I decided I really wanted to fly one. When I found a step by step YouTube tutorial by RC Model Reviews, and watched it several times through, I decided that even though I had no experience building anything electronic I could do it since the tutorial was so thorough. Although the tutorial included some links, it doesn’t have a comprehensive list of all the parts and tools that are required. This caused me to order some parts I didn’t need, and other parts I had to order last minute after I realized they were needed. So others don’t waste money like I did, I compiled a list of all the parts and tools I ended up needing. I spent about $800 even though it should have costed about $630 plus shipping. You can get everything you need for under $500 if you already have some of the tools, and/or use a less expensive controller. For example, I got the Taranis X9D ($212), but you could get the Taranis QX7 for $120 which would drop the total cost for everything to about $540 – I do not have personal experience with the Taranis QX7, but it’s supposed about the same. If you find cheaper/better parts or tools please comment the links so others can benefit!

After I got most my parts I had a friend teach me the basics of soldering, but from there the tutorial was able to guide me through the whole process. A few times I was frustrated, but I believe this build is completely doable by most people.

I finished the first part of the tutorial before adding FPV and tried to go fly the racing quad line of sight. I crashed it many times, caused some damage, and could have hurt someone. I bought a $17 little toy quad and a $2 protector with extra blades (highly recommended). This allowed me to practice inside and learn to fly before talking my racing one out. For the safety of your quad, others, and yourself first learn to fly a toy, then learn to fly line of sight, and then learn to fly FPV.

Since the Taranis has telemetry I was also able to add battery warnings with the help of a tutorial by travisgrindal. Note: if you get the pre-soldered flight board like I did you’ll need to cut the JST connector to be shorter to fit on the pins since the standoffs bring it up too close to the top panel.

This quad is great as a first time build since it is tough, easy to build, easy to upgrade, inexpensive, and can handle both 3s (11.v) and 4s (14.8v) batteries.

Happy flying!

 

Budget build tutorial by RC Model Reviews: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLgHGpiWXS2eSYeceg736QSESW9mijzuhf

Telemetry and battery warnings setup tutorial by travisgrindal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7KpBGDxZQ4

 

Quadcopter Parts ($231 + shipping):

1 frame – $21 (the triangles go down for stands – super helpful, but mine broke off pretty quickly when I was learning to fly)
http://www.banggood.com/H250-ZMR250-250mm-Carbon-Fiber-Mini-Quadcopter-Multicopter-Frame-Kit-p-933185.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE9EGAA

4 motors – $32 (in the tutorial he cuts the motor and ESC wires, but I decided to avoid the extra soldering by connecting them and bunching them up with zip ties – see pictures)
http://www.banggood.com/DYS-BE1806-2300KV-Brushless-Motor-2-3S-for-Mini-Multicopters-p-933192.html
or
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__61433__DYS_BE1806_13_Brushless_Motor_for_Multirotor_2300KV_24g.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SR9GH4O

4 ESCs- $40
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__55241__Afro_ESC_12Amp_Ultra_Lite_Multi_rotor_Motor_Speed_Controller_SimonK_Firmware_Version_3.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WFHNFX0

1 flight controller – $23
http://www.banggood.com/Afro-Naze32-10DOF-Rev5-MPU6050-Flight-controller-p-1007113.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__68813__AfroFlight_Naze32_Acro_FunFly_Controller_Soldered_version_Horizontal_Pin_.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZIZO0W

1 receiver – $23
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-D4RII-24G-4CH-ACCST-Telemetry-Receiver-p-929069.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24788__FrSky_D4R_II_4ch_2_4Ghz_ACCST_Receiver_w_telemetry_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWHWFWO

1 camera 2.8mm – $31 (in the tutorial the SC2000 600TVL Camera was used, but if you use this one instead your quad will be able to support 3s and 4s batteries – the only down side is you can only get 3 of the 4 standoff nuts on)
http://www.banggood.com/RunCam-PZ0420M-L28-2_8MM-864_3M-600TVL-DC-5-17V-Wide-Voltage-Mini-FPV-Camera-p-1017665.html
or
http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/RunCam-600TVL-DC-5%252d17V-Wide-Voltage-Mini-FPV-Board-Camera.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0P2M2Q

1 FPV transmitter – $19
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__63114__SkyZone_TS5823_5_8GHz_32CH_A_V_200mW_Mini_FPV_Transmitter_v2_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3QD9O

10 sets of 2 5040 blades – $8 (you only need 2 sets, but you’ll want tons of these)
http://www.banggood.com/6-Pairs-Gemfan-5040-CW-CCW-ABS-Propellers-For-ZMR250-QAV250-280-180-RC-Multirotors-p-1007458.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80963__Gemfan_5040_Multirotor_ABS_Propellers_Bulk_Pack_10_Pairs_CW_CCW_Black_.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FMY0F4O

3 female XT60 connectors – $2
http://www.banggood.com/Amass-XT60-MaleFemale-Bullet-Connector-Plugs-For-RC-Lipo-Battery-p-929670.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10414__Male_XT60_connectors_5pcs_bag_GENUINE.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6AUSYU

10 JST connections – $3
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-10-Pairs-15cm-JST-Connector-Plug-With-Connect-Cable-For-RC-BEC-ESC-Battery-p-50810.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7MXA2W

M2 and M3 standoffs – $12 (M2 standoffs for camera and M3 for the flight controller)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017QE9OU4
or
http://www.banggood.com/140pcs-M2-Nylon-Hex-Spacers-Screw-Nut-Assortment-Stand-off-Accessories-Kit-Set-p-996104.html
and
http://www.banggood.com/88pcs-M3-Nylon-Black-M-F-Hex-Spacers-Screw-Nut-Assortment-Kit-p-947169.html

1 meter of silicone wire – $1 (I found it helpful to get both red and black)
http://www.banggood.com/2M-AWG-Soft-Silicone-Flexible-Wire-Cable-12-20-AWG-1-Meter-Red-1-Meter-Black-p-985529.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__78196__Turnigy_High_Quality_16AWG_Silicone_Wire_1m_Black_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077E92C4

1 meter of LED lights – $3 (not required, but recommended – 1 meter is way more than needed)
http://www.banggood.com/5M-300-LEDs-SMD-3528-Flexible-LED-Strip-Light-Non-Waterproof-DC-12V-p-922277.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8941__Turnigy_High_Density_R_C_LED_Flexible_Strip_Red_1mtr_.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FHEJ3V0

1 set of 4 velcro – $3
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__74090__Polyester_Velcro_Peel_n_stick_Black_1_Meter_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Sticky-Back-Strips-Black/dp/B000TGSPV6

Heat shrink – $5
http://www.banggood.com/328pcs-21-Polyolefin-Heat-Shrink-Tube-Sleeving-5-Color-8-Size-p-969574.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Shrink-Sleeve-Assorted/dp/B008WWC6FU

1 copper pcb to use as power distribution board – $3 (I did not use, but I wish I did since it would have things easier than soldering all the wires together)
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Single-Copper-Laminate-Circuit/dp/B00P26EQNE

1 battery strap – $2 (I made my own, but I would recommend buying one since my battery comes off on hard crashes)
http://www.banggood.com/Nylon-Velcro-Lipo-Battery-2cm30cm-Ribbon-Fastener-Magic-Sticker-Strap-p-922923.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__90954__Scorpion_Locking_Velcro_Battery_Strap_Set.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ANOKKTS

 

Accessories ($322 + shipping):

2 batteries – $31 (one for Goggles and one for the quad – you’ll probably want more of these – the battery for the Googles needs to be 3s, but the quad can handle 3s or 4s)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18207__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDH7WB6

1 battery charger – $27 (you also need to buy a connector for XT60 or cut the wires and solder on a XT60 connector like I did – XT60 connectors already listed above)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__58315__Turnigy_P405_Dual_Input_AC_DC_45W_Digital_Balancing_Charger_.html

1 controller – $207 (a cheeper alternative would the Taranis Q X7)
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-2_4G-ACCST-Taranis-X9D-Plus-Transmitter-p-940819.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__67750__FrSky_2_4GHz_ACCST_TARANIS_X9D_PLUS_Digital_Telemetry_Radio_System_Mode_2_.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014IYV8TK

1 controller charger – $7 (if the one you choose doesn’t come with one)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__45031__FrSky_AC_DC_Charge_Adapter_US_Version.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010HDI4QG

1 goggles – $32 (these are the first ones I used and they work ok, but I would recommend the Quanum v2 Goggles)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__53706__Quanum_DIY_FPV_Goggle_Set_with_Monitor_KIT_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YPZ9N4A

1 FPV receiver – $17
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15415__SkyZone_RC305_5_8Ghz_8_Channel_AV_Receiver.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZQYGSW

1 male to male RCA cable/connector – $1 (the goggles and FPV receiver both have female RCA video cables so you’ll need a way to connect them – I made my own male to male connection, but the one linked should work)
http://www.banggood.com/Male-to-Male-RCA-Phono-Coupler-AV-Audio-Adapter-Connector-Nickel-p-968256.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34746__RCA_Male_to_RCA_Male_A_V_Coupler_Adaptor_3pc_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Male-Coupler-Connector-Adapter/dp/B007PQ0K1G

You’ll also need to solder a XT60 connector that goes to 2 JST connections (both already listed above) so your screen and your receiver share the same battery- see pictures (they don’t necessarily have to share the same battery, but they need to share the same ground wire)

I would also recommend getting a Lipo Battery Tester Monitor Low Voltage Buzzer, but it isn’t required. This will make it easy to check the voltage of your battery and individual cells without connecting it to the charger. Also, if don’t set up telemetry you can mounted this to your quad so you have a battery warning buzzer to help you avoid damaging your lipo batteries by running them too low.

 

Tools ($76 + shipping):

1 knife – $7
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006962HWI

1 soldering iron – $8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NGZK0

Soldering wire – $2
http://www.banggood.com/0_8mm-Soldering-Wire-60-40-Tin-Resin-Flux-Dispenser-Tube-Rosin-Core-Solder-p-990164.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OSBBI0

Zip ties – $2 (I used tons of these)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17570__Cable_Ties_160_x_2_5mm_White_100pcs_.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2LGMO4

Loctite – $8
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1363589-4-Gram-Control-Adhesive/dp/B003Y49R7G

Metric allen keys – $15 (I already had these)
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-25253-Hex-Wrench-30-Piece/dp/B00I5TH074

Wrench – $10 (socket wrench would be better, but a wrench works – I already had one and a socket wrench set)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N5L0

Electrical tape – $8 (I used electrical tape from HomeDepot, but many people have recommended liquid electrical tape)
http://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B000XBDK7G

Wire cutters – $11 (not needed since you have the knife, but they will make things easier – I already had some)
http://www.amazon.com/Rapala-7-Inch-Side-Cutter/dp/B0015NBL0E

Android cable – $5 (for connecting the flight board to your computer – I already had one)
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Charge-Techoland-Enhance-Experience/dp/B00W1VC2TS

Computer – I’m going to assume you have one (needed for running base flight)

 

Pictures:

Goggles and FPV receiver

IMG_20150922_080800414

Quadcopter

IMG_20150922_080819783IMG_20150922_080829719IMG_20150922_080838468IMG_20150922_080846389

 

I put together a list of backup parts you should consider getting in this blog post: http://copterwars.com/blog/?p=148

If you want to read about the upgrades I made over the first 6 months of regularly flying this build checkout this blog post:
http://copterwars.com/blog/?p=56